TOP TIPS FROM EXPERIENCED GROWERS
VAOS GROWERS CLINIC
This publication was prepared by the VAOS Growers Clinic Team with input from our members and other experienced orchid growers. Members are encouraged to submit their orchid growing tips via email to Pres@VAOS.org. This publication will be updated periodically and maintained on the www.VAOS.org website. Tips are organized in the following categories:
- Air/Light/Water
- Cold Weather & Storm Protection
- Fertilizer & Supplements
- General
- Genera/Species Specific
- Mounts and Baskets
- Pests & Diseases
- Pots & Media
- Repotting
- Tools of the Trade
**These tips are a compilation of ideas, but, what works for others may not work for you. Make small changes and evaluate results. Modify these tips to your growing area, work style and culture.
How important is air circulation? Good air circulation around your orchids is critical especially during the warmer months to reduce the risk of fungus and pests. The higher the heat, the more water and air circulation is needed. Ceiling fans work well supplemented with smaller fans to maintain a slight breeze around your plants 24/7. Avoid crowding plants to allow air to circulate around them. (VAOS Members)
Keep That Air Circulating! – Run fans 24/7 year round. Florida is very humid. Moving air prevents bacteria (which loves humid conditions) to grow and attack your orchids. Though your electric bill will increase slightly, this practice will save you from throwing out several or your orchids due to brown or black bacterial rot. Each of those grown orchids are worth $25-60.00 or more. (Cynthia Vance)
How much light and/or shade do my orchids need? Cattleyas, dendrobiums, oncidiums and phragmipediums flourish in bright light with 15% to 30% shade – about what a screened patio, lanai or pool cage provides or a shade tree. East or south exposure is best. Slowly acclimate your new orchids to higher light conditions to avoid sunburn. Phals, paphs and bulbos require bright, indirect light – they often do well under a patio overhang providing them protection from the sun and rain. Vandas require high light. The most frequent reason for lack of blooming is too little light. There are mico-climates in every growing area and often moving a plant to another area will improve blooming. Watch for and adjust for seasonal changes in sunlight exposure in your growing area.(VAOS Members)
Light: Two layers of screen turns out to be great light for growing phalaenopsis and angraecums. One layer can be your pool cage screen and the other layer can be suspended over your plants. They can tolerate this level of light all day. (Joanna Shaw)
Screen Density – If your pool cage or lanai growing area faces west and you are concerned about too much sunlight, consider rescreening with 20-20 vs. the standard 18-18 screen mesh density. Added benefits – eliminate no-see-ums and more shade/protection from skin cancer. (Carol Wood)
Light: Looking at your orchid’s leaf shape and growth habit can indicate the light levels a plant needs. For example, leaves that are very narrow and point straight up, such as brassavolas, indicate bright light. Leaves that are wide and lay flatter, indicate shade, such as Phals. Leaves that are in between – indicate light needs that are in-between. Also the color of the leaves show if you are giving too much or not enough light. Very deep green indicates too little light, very light green indicates too much light. Most of the orchids we grow should be a nice grass green shade. (Renee Bynum)
How Often Should I Water my Orchids? Water your orchids once or twice a week or more frequently when it is very hot. Water thoroughly, wait 15 minutes and then water thoroughly again. Allow cattleyas, dendrobiums and oncidiums to dry out before the next watering. Use the pot “heft test” to determine if the pot is light and the plant needs watering. Bulbos, phals, paphs and phrags require more frequent watering – keep them evenly moist but not wet. Vandas and other mounted plants grown with no media will require daily watering during the warm months. Seedlings will require more frequent watering. Do not use a water softener – the salt will kill the plants. (VAOS Members)
Water well when you water – When you water, place your hose down very close to almost into the pot so all the media gets thoroughly wet. You may want to go around your orchid collection twice. With the use of New Zealand Orchiata which many in our society use, you will need to water longer so this ‘hard’ media absorbs the water totally and also more often for this media appears to dry out faster. (Cynthia Vance)
Watering: If you are unsure whether your plant is still damp deep inside the pot, use a small bamboo stake such as chopsticks or the sticks used for grilling. Carefully insert the stake into the middle of the pot, and leave it in. To check to see if the pot is still damp deep inside, pull the stake out. If the stake shows any moistness, then it is still damp inside the pot. Be sure to put the stake back into the same spot to prevent root damage. (Renee Bynum)
Cold Weather & Storm Protection
Some Dens Hate the Cold – Did you know that one of the most sensitive orchids to cold in south Florida is the Phalaenopsis-type Dendrobium? These orchids that can grow to over 6′ tall, are sensitive to temperatures below 55*. Cold won’t kill them but they will drop their leaves, quickly resembling a palm tree. Bring them in or protect them from the cold. Other dendrobiums can tolerate cooler temps. Some, such as nobile, need a cooler dry winter rest to initiate flowers.
Clay Pots Provide Stability – Set plastic pots into clay pots for stability.
Bunge Cords – Small bungee cords can securely attach large pots and baskets to the bench or shelf in storm conditions.
Sheets, Not Plastic – During cold weather cover your plants with old sheets and not plastic. Plastic prevents air flow and if left on the next day your plants will cook in the sun.
What type of fertilizer should I use? Any good orchid fertilizer will do, some people even use tomato or African violet fertilizer. Use a 20-20-20 balanced fertilizer and supplement occasionally with calcium and magnesium. Or use a Michigan State University (MSU) – type fertilizer that contains micro-nutrients including calcium and magnesium. The rule of thumb is to fertilize “weekly-weakly”, using 1/4 to 1/2 tsp. fertilizer to a gallon of water. When the plants’ pseudo bulbs have matured and the plant begins dormancy in the cooler months, fertilize less frequently. (VAOS Members)
Nutricote time release fertilizer – . Many local growers recommend supplementing with a timed-release fertilizer (Nutricote sold as Dynamite in the red plastic bottle at Home Depot). Apply in March/Spring and September/Fall each year. 1 tsp. to 6″ pot, sprinkled around the perimeter of the pot. (VAOS Members)
Fertilizer: Cut the amount the label recommends in half and fertilize each time you water. Rotate several types of fertilizers. Different types of fertilizers have different minerals and some fertilizers cannot be mixed together. By rotating them you will cover a greater amount minerals for the plants than using only one type of fertilizer every time. (Jim Thomas)
Dynamite Bird Nests – Bob Hague, former owner of Venice Orchids, suggested that time release fertilizer is most effective if it is in contact with the media. Therefore, suspending a small bag of time release fertilizer over a mounted plant may not be as effective as embedding it into the media. Use moistened cocoanut husk to form a small birds nest and wrap it around 1 tsp. of Dynamite. Tuck down into the mounted plant so that it is in contact with the mount and roots. This will ensure its application with each watering. (Carol Wood)
PH Level – PH should be in the 5.7 to 6.8 range in order for the plant to absorb fertilizer. Too high or too low PH will reduce the availability of nutrients which will result in a desiccated plant. It is the PH of the media combined with the water/fertilizer solution that gives the true PH reading. To check your PH, fertilize the plant as normal and collect the water that drains out of the pot in a bowl or plastic bag. Let sit one hour. Test PH using an aquarium test kit. Test periodically to ensure your plants are absorbing your fertilizer.
Seaweed Extract Supplement – I use KelpMax seaweed extract as a supplement to encourage root development. Add to fertilizer mix once a month. Soak rootless plants prior to repot. Drench freshly potted plants. 1TBS/gallon. FirstRays.com has info and carries product (Carol Wood)
Oyster Shell – Top dress paphs to add needed calcium.
Dolomite Lime – Bill Fender, former owner of Fender’s Flora, used 20-20-20 fertilizer and supplemented with Dolomite Lime to add calcium and magnesium. Broadcast, top dress or mix into media when repot. Will raise PH level.
Calcium Deficiency – New lead rot may be calcium deficiency and not bacterial or fungal problem. Ensure your plants are getting calcium and magnesium by using a fertilizer with these elements (MSU type, Peters Cal-Mag, Grow More). If you use a fertilizer that does not contain Cal-Mag, you’ll need to supplement.
If the Weather’s Hot – If it’s hot, don’t fertilize or spray pesticides – will leave a burn spot if pools on leaves. Best to spray pesticides at sunset.
What orchids grow best here? Cattleyas, dendrobiums, oncidiums, vandas and bulbos grow well outdoors in our area. Phalaenopsis and paphiopedilums grow well but require more shade and should be hand- watered and not exposed to rainfall. Phragmipediums grow well and prefer to have their “feet wet” (set in saucer of water). Most cymbidiums, miltonias and odontglossums are cool growing plants and will not bloom well here unless purchased from a local grower and bred to be “warmth tolerant”. Any species plant requires special attention – your success is based on your ability to match its’ natural habitat
Rewetting Sphagnum Moss – It’s difficult to rewet sphagnum moss once it drys out – add soap. (Keith Davis)
Staking with Plant Hangers – Keith Davis puts plant hangers on all pots to use for staking. Better then sticks that wobble in pots/media.
Some Good Advice from John Roche
- Some plants need to stay wet, some plants want to stay moist, and some plants would like to dry out now and then. Don’t put these together.
- I believe more harm is done to our plants by us. If left on their own, they have survived for eons.
- I read a quote somewhere, a beginner grows flowers; a master grows roots. If a plant looks sick, check the roots.
- There can be too much fertilizer and there can be too little fertilizer, there must be a spot in between that works for yours.
- Watch the sun, it is moving south to north to south every year, what may be shady today will be sunny tomorrow, move plants accordingly.
- BTW, some trees lose leaves in the spring be careful putting plants under them.
- You’ll know you have accomplished something when you can give plants away.
Orchids Are Like Humans – They need their personal space and dislike crowding. When they “shower” they like a good soaking and then to dry off fast. They prefer regular, moderate meals to monthly binges. They love a warm sunny and breezy day and enjoy cooler evenings. (Carol Wood)
Seedlings: Keep your seedlings front and center – they will require more frequent watering and repotting and a little more shade. Monitor them closely as they are more susceptible to disease. Don’t put your seedlings between your larger plants. Remember: #1 Get them to survive. #2 Get them to thrive. #3 Get them to bloom. (Carol Wood)
Set Up Work Zones – As your collection grows it can become overwhelming, especially when it comes to repotting. A good approach, proposed by Roy Klinger, Past President of VAOS, is to break your collection down into “Zones”. Tackle one zone at a time – pick up each plant – examine, clean, treat, stake and repot the plants as needed in that zone. You’ll feel a sense of accomplishment, no longer overwhelmed, and ready to tackle the next zone.
Expanding Your Growing Area – Michael Polen gave us a great presentation on expanding your growing area by going vertical. Add lattice work or wood or wire fencing to hang your plants from. Install plant hangers on your pool cage or lanai beams. Suspend PVC pipe along the top of your lanai. Add an arbor. (Carol Wood)
Cleaning Your Plant Leaves – Club soda, milk and lemon juice will remove spots from leaves. Use cotton balls or paper towels to wipe leaves. (Jim Thomas)
Hose Off Pests – Bob Hague recommended using a strong jet of water from the hose to blast off scale and other pests.
Sphag & Bag Back Bulbs – Put holes in the two corners of a newspaper plastic bag. Add Styrofoam peanuts and damp sphag. then back bulbs. Place bag in low light and wait for roots to develop. (Keith Davis)
What Orchids Bloom Continuously? – Several. Some are B. nodosa and hybrids, Bl. Yellow Bird and Psychopsis. These orchids will bloom continuously once mature. B. nodosa (Lady of the Night) grows well mounted and blooms non-stop once mature. A hybrid, Bl. Yellow Bird, never seems to stop blooming. Don’t cut the stems of Psychopsis – new buds form behind each flower. Psychopsis grows well in lava rock and hates having its roots disturbed – don’t repot – pot up! (Carol Wood)
Pint Size Alternatives – Love those large vandas, dendrobiums and cattleyas but lack the space to grow them? Here are some smaller alternatives. Vandas grow to 5′ plus with their roots extended – consider some smaller but similar varieties such as Vandonetia or Ascofinetia. Phalaenopsis- type dendrobiums grow to 6′ high or taller. Consider some of those cute multi-flower dens such as Microchip and kingianum. Look for “compact” cattleyas as an alternative to the larger standard cattleya varieties. (Carol Wood)
Growing Success: Species vs. Hybrids – With a species orchid, the grower needs to adjust the growing conditions to essentially mirror the conditions in the wild. With hybrids, while the grower still needs to consider environmental conditions, the orchid has a greater ability to adjust to less than optimum conditions due to a wider genetic diversity. Thus, the grower has greater latitude and isn’t immediately punished by the suicide of the plant. Also, species orchids are often found only in specific micro climates which are difficult, if not impossible, to adequately duplicate in our growing conditions. A ‘few’ of the vendors at Redland, especially when confronted by an obviously inexperienced buyer, won’t hesitate to sell the leftover and expensive species without mention of special requirements. At the very least, our newer members should ask specific questions and google the plant and ask more experienced members for advice. I’m writing this from experience!! (Steve Vogelhaupt.)
Nobile Dendrobiums – Nobile dens require a dry winter rest to produce buds. Hold off fertilizing until the buds are set to produce the most prolific blooming.
Bifoliate Cattleya Species – Most bifoliate (2 leaves per pseudobulb) cattleyas are from Brazil. Many exceed 2′ high at maturity. Grown best in baskets. Critical to only repot and divide bifoliates when new root growth has started.
Molded Plastic Baskets – The new molded plastic baskets will never rot as many wood baskets will do. Once plants are placed in baskets they are almost impossible to remove and repot later. Bill Fender warned that rotted wood baskets could be toxic to roots. Chose your basket wisely as it likely will be the permanent home for your plant. . (Carol Wood)
Place pot in basket to prevent sideways growth – Place your potted plant into the basket to ensure vertical and not horizontal growth out the sides of the basket. (Carol Wood)
Baskets – Secure the rhizome at the top of the basket with sticks stuck through the basket to ensure vertical growth. (Michael Polen)
Mounting Orchids – Be sure to place the new roots against the wood/mount. Consider using cocoa nut husk instead of sphagnum moss as a pad between the roots and mount. Use plastic bird netting, fishing line or plastic cable ties to hold plants securely in place on their mounts.
Tree Fern Mounts – Make sure to mount the plant “with the grain” of the tree fern.
Pest and Fungus Control: Many pest and fungus problems can be avoided by keeping your growing area clean and increasing air circulation during hot weather. Monitor your plants carefully and if you find a problem isolate the plant and treat it. Remove dry sheaths where scale often hides. Spray clean your work areas and plant shelves with Physan or a 10% bleach solution.
Common pests in our area are scale, thrips, aphids, mealy bugs and slugs. If you have a small collection or if the problem is not widespread, try a non-chemical treatment first – Neem Oil, All Seasons Oil, 50/50 alcohol and water solution or just plain dish washing soap in water. Several treatments will be necessary. Saturate the plant, spraying under the leaves. Do not spray oils on a hot day. See www.firstrays.com for some popular home remedies.
If a pest problem is widespread or cannot be eliminated by non-chemical treatments, the next step is a pesticide. Merit 75 or Orthene WP 97 is recommended for scale, thrips, mealy bugs and aphids. Follow label directions carefully and wear protective clothing. Rotate pesticides. Routine preventative spraying with pesticides is not recommended.
Treat slugs with slug and snail bait pellets (sprinkle small amount on top of media) available from Home Depot or Lowes.
Elimination of mites may require a miticide such as Kelthane or Pentac.
Ants can be eliminated with Orange Guard, Sevin or Orthene.
Neem oil and All Seasons Oil will control pests and also fungus. For widespread fungus problems treat with Banrot 40 WP or Zyban. Preventative spraying with Banrot or Zyban in spring and early summer will help to prevent fungus problems during the rainy season. (VAOS Members)
Dreaded Scale – Scale is the most dreaded and common pest for us. Once you see it you already have a problem. Left untreated it will kill your plant and will spread rapidly through your collection. Look for yellow spots and tiny “turtle shells” on your leaves and cotton like masses at the base of the pseudobulb and under the dry sheath. Isolate and treat the plant once a week for three weeks. Check nearby plants for scale. For small scale infestations use an alcohol/water/soap mix. Large scale infestations may require systemic pesticides such as Orthene (Acephate 97UP) or Merit. For severe scale, remove the plant from its pot, treat it and repot in fresh media. (Carol Wood)
Dreaded Thrips – Right behind scale, thrips are the second most dreaded and common pest. Thrips will ruin the flowers you have waited all year to enjoy. Look for indented rings or girdling around the new root tips and pitted or stippled buds. On flowers look for tiny slim black crawlers under the petals. Treat as you treat scale above. (Carol Wood)
Scale Treatment – I have found that the best treatment for scale is if the infestation is large, remove the plant from the pot and all media, spray the whole plant with 409 cleaner, use a soft toothbrush on all areas of the plant, set the plant aside for 4 days, recheck the plant for scale if none is seen then repot in new media, if scale is found spray the plant again and set aside for 4 days. Follow this order until no scale is found. If the original infestation is small, do not take the plant out of its media but spray the infected area with 409 and clean the area with the soft toothbrush then respray the area. You can put the plant back on the table but keep watch for any new signs of scale. (Jim Thomas)
Rotate Chemicals: Make sure you rotate the use of insecticides, fungicides and any home treatments you might be using. See the manufacturer’s label or website for recommendations. Insects and fungi develop resistance to insecticides and fungicides while spider mites develop resistance to miticides when products with the same MOAs (method of action) are used. Simply using different chemicals doesn’t mean that you are providing different MOAs. If you’re rotating between Orthene and Malathion, you’re staying within the same MOA; the same being true of Aliette and Phyton 27 for fungicides.. In general, suggestion is to rotate fungicides with each treatment and to rotate insecticides with each insect generation. Lots and lots of great charts and articles are available online. (Steve Vogelhaupt)
Fungicide – Jeff Bradley, who grows many heritage cattleyas, was a speaker at the cattleya symposium . He told us this natural alternative to chemical fungicides: put one tablespoon of cinnamon and one tablespoon of sulfur in a cup of water, shake, and let sit overnight. Pour off the liquid into a hand held spray bottle and use this spray as a fungicide. He feels it is so powerful he can even stop crown rot in a phal. (Joanna Shaw)
Alcohol Spray – An effective homemade pesticide spray: 50/50 alcohol and water + 2 cinnamon sticks + a little dish liquid or 409. Spray once a week for 3 weeks.
Ivory Liquid Soap – The lady who grew beautiful, blemish-free orchids on her backyard fence and never used anything but Ivory Dish Detergent in water to control pests and diseases.
Pesticides Rotation – Spray pesticides three times, one week apart. Rotate pesticides.
Hydrogen Peroxide – Recommended in treatment of bacterial infections. Spray or pour on plant and media.
Importance of Open Media in SW FL – Orchids grown outdoors in South Florida require an open mix that drains rapidly after our heavy rains. Many growers use a bark mix (bark, charcoal, sponge rock) or a cocoanut husk chunk (CHC) mix (CHC, charcoal, sponge rock).Other growers use a partial or 100% inorganic mix composed of one or more of the following: lava rock, charcoal, aliflor (clay pellets), dyna-rok, sponge rock or other media for their mature plants. Many growers use Orchiata bark either mixed with charcoal and sponge rock or straight up. Use smaller size media for seedlings or fine root plants and larger size media for mature plants. Some growers prefer sphagnum moss in clay pots for Phalaenopsis, but sphagnum moss holds water, is tricky, and should not be used in plants exposed to rainfall. The best quality media can be found at local orchid nurseries or purchased through online orchid suppliers.
Benefit of Inorganic Media – The benefit of using inorganic media (clay pellets, lava rock, charcoal, dyna-rok, etc.) is it never breaks down. You can repot anytime without removing the old media and without disturbing the roots. (Keith Davis)
Clay or plastic pots? Using clay or plastic pots is a matter of personal preference. Clay pots dry out faster and help to keep plants cooler in hot weather. They also add weight to stabilize the plant in heavy winds. Plastic pots are less expensive and hold moisture longer. Many growers pot seedlings and moisture loving plants in plastic and mature plants in clay. Some outdoor growers will set plastic pots into clay pots for added stability. Azalea (short) clay pots with slotted holes work well. Aircone plastic pots are popular. Whichever pot you choose, be sure that it has sufficient drainage holes. Wood or plastic baskets are also popular and are used for vandas, agraecums and those genera that like to wander. (VAOS Members)
Cocoanut Husk Chips – CHC is a great media to use in a mix. Be sure to soak and rinse it three times, with the final rinse in Calcium Nitrate to remove all salt residue.
Don’t repot – Pot Up! Sometimes a plant is so content in its pot you might decide to “pot-up” – place it in a larger pot and fill in media around it. This approach eliminates damaging the roots and subsequent plant set back and many orchids just hate to have their roots disturbed. This approach is perfect for those Brazilian species that grow so tall. Set the small pot they grew in as a seedling into a basket and let it take off! Potting-Up is also a good approach for plants you wish to grow into specimen size plants. Dendrobiums prefer tight small pots and resent repotting so they are also perfect candidates for Pot-Up. This approach works best if you use primarily non-organic media such as clay pellets, lava rock, charcoal, sponge rock, etc. It will not deteriorate as bark will do after a few years.(Carol Wood and Renee Bynum)
When Should I Repot? – A frequent question at the Growers Clinic is When Should I Repot? Our standard reply is when the media breaks down or when the plant is overgrowing the pot. Here are some other recommendations from the Growers Clinic Team:
- Orchids will become more quickly established if repotted when the new roots are about 1” long on the newest
- Paphiopedilums can be repotted at anytime and should be repotted each
- Phalaenopsis can be repotted at any time (even when in bloom) and should be repotted about every two years if potted in sphagnum
- Most cattleya alliance plants can be repotted after blooming but must be well secured in the new pot as new roots may not break out until
- Species and bi-foliate plants should only be repotted in the spring with new root growth; otherwise, it can set them back for
Inverted net pots – When repotting in a 10″ or larger pot, place a small 2″ net pot over the center pot hole and add media to hold in place. Will increase air circulation and reduce chance of root rot. (Rich Amos)
Sphag over those new roots – Add a thin layer of sphagnum moss over the tips of delicate new roots to protect them from nibbling snails . (Keith Davis)
Remove Dry Sheaths – Remove dry sheaths when repotting to expose pseudo-bulbs to sun – will double your photosynthesis!. (Keith Davis)
Removing Dry Sheaths – As you soak your pot to loosen roots, shoot a hard stream of water down the sides of pseudobulbs and easily peel off the dry sheaths. (Carol Wood)
Don’t Bury Aerial Roots – Don’t bury aerial roots when repotting – they will die. You can pot them but don’t cover with media. When you see new branching developing on the roots start to add media slowly – the roots will survive. (Keith Davis)
Repotting rootless plants – Add sphagnum moss and then slowly add other media after the new roots develop. (Keith Davis)
13 Steps to Successful Repot – 1) Soak plant then remove from pot 2) Remove old media gently – “tickle” it out 3) Trim all dead and spongy roots 4) Spray with fungicide – set out to dry overnight 4) Select new pot that allows no more room than 2 years growth 6) Place small amount media in bottom of pot such as lava rock or clay pellets that will facilitate drainage 7)Place plant in pot with oldest growth side of plant against side of pot 1 1/2″ below pot rim. 8) Secure with 1 or 2 pot clips 9) Fill in and tap down media – do not cover rhizome 10) Insert plant tag 11) Water in and spray with fungicide 13) Keep in dry, low light area for 2 weeks then resume normal watering.
Best Label Marker – No. 2 pencil. The only thing that lasts in bright sunlight. (Carol Wood)
Best Label Marker – Sharpie Pro Industrial 500* F Marker (Lowes tool section) – go over twice. (Keith Davis)
Best Labels – Aluminum tags (Jim Thomas)
Best Clippers – Corona Stainless Steel, Straight Snip, AG 493055, $14.
Best Way to Sterilize Clippers – BernzOmatic Propane (blue tank) with Quickfire Top. Home Depot. About $10, lasts one year. Set on your potting bench, hold with one hand and pass clippers through the flame. Have not burned myself yet. (Carol Wood)
Best Way to Sterilize Clippers – MAPP Pro Gas Fuel Cylinder – hotter burn then propane – 10 seconds each side. (Keith Davis)
Best Way to Sterilize Clippers – Trisodium Phosphate (TSP). 2-3 Tbs. in water a plastic container. Sterilizes and cleans clippers without rusting. (Rich Amos)
Best Way to Sterilize Clippers – Crème Brulee torch (Judy Loeffler)
Worst Way to Sterilize Clippers – Alcohol or bleach or anything other than above.
Best Watering Wand – Wonder Waterer Wand. (Keith Davis)
Best plant shelves – Indoor Garden Supplies (IGS) 4 tier stainless steel shelves, TH485, $104, easy assembly, lightweight, holds 20 – 24 mature plants. (Carol Wood)
Hose End Sprayer- Soak the nozzle top in soapy water after use to prevent clogs. Dissolve fertilizer in warm water before mixing in the sprayer to prevent clogs.
Label Your Sprayers – The worst story we’ve heard is the guy who lost his entire orchid collection when he accidentally sprayed Weed-Be-Gone.